How to Make Soy Candles

First, when using pure soy wax you will need a container to pour the candle in as soy wax is a soft creamy wax and melts at such a low temperature that it can not be a stand-alone candle. 

  1. Line your work surface with newspaper.
  2. Wick jars with wick-stickers or a glue gun, making sure to center.
  3. Use a Presto Kitchen Kettle with a thermostat and heat soy wax to 155°. Never leave heating wax unattended.
  4. Pour heated wax into a separate container (metal pouring pot).
  5. Add your choice of fragrance oil (by weight) to the melted soy wax once it reaches 145°. Mix the fragrance oil and melted wax for several minutes. Remember, you MUST WEIGH your fragrance oil and soy wax and add it to the melted wax at 145°. The soy wax can be weighed before or after melted, it will weigh the same.
  6. Test to find out what temperature you like to pour at.
  7. Again, stir gently and pour very slowly into your wicked jars.
  8. Hold wick in place with a clip-style clothespin.
  9. Allow soy wax to cool. We like to let our soy candles cure for a few days for maximum scent throw, but it's hard to wait that long!  Don't be afraid to burn your candles the next day. If you prefer smooth tops on your candles, just use a heat gun (hardware store $30) to re-melt top layer. Pouring soy wax at a cooler temperature will aid in smother tops.  

Equipment Needed

melting pot
reliable scale
mixing pots
mixing spoons
paper towels
comfy shoes
soy wax
fragrance oil

Recommendations & Hints recommends that you record your trial and errors in a journal soy you can always reflect back on the journal when problems do arise. Hopefully you can refer back to your journal notes to isolate the cause of the problem. Different variables can include your container, fragrance oil, wax, wicks, pour temperature and even the conditions of your work area. Please, before selling your products, test...test...test...and the re-test! Testing cannot be stressed by SCS enough. Testing will always remain an unavoidable part of your candle-making process. The success of your finished products relays solely on your adequate testing! 

Pouring soy wax at too hot of a temperature will result in 'cauliflower' appearance (also called frost lines - they are little white vein marks throughout your candles) This will not affect the burn or quality of your soy candle.   Never pour soy wax down your drain. The soy wax WILL CLOG YOUR SINK!

♦ No need to heat your jars before pouring.  Pour in room-temperature containers.

♦ Do I need to add any additives to my soy wax?  No, our soy wax does not require additives.  Our soy wax is great with just color dye and fragrance oils.  Some additives may have a tendency to inhibit scent throw. Beeswax used as an additive in container soy candles can make for smoother tops. The  recommend beginning testing point is 1/2 ounce per pound of soy wax.

♦ Can I make free-standing pillars or votives?  No, soy wax is very soft and creamy - therefore it can not be burned unless in a heat-safe container.

♦ Can we use the Scented Nest soy wax to make novelty candles?  No, pure soy wax is just too soft.

♦  What size wick should we use in our jars?   Every container will need to be tested with different size wicks.  Please take advantage of Measure the opening diameter of your container, compare that measurement to the WICK CHART below.  If you want you may take three identical jars and use a different in each one.  After your containers are wicked, make a batch of scented wax with the formula you will be using for your soy candle line (example: 1.5oz fragrance oil per pound of SCS Soy Wax).  At the appropriate temperature, pour your melted wax into your test container.  We recommend that you let your soy candles cure for 48 hours for best results.   When ready to test burn your soy candles we recommend placing them in the same general area (1-2 foot apart) to insure they will all be under the same conditions.  Let burn four to six hours and take notes of flame heights, depth of melt pool, does any wax remain on the sides of your container?  Extinguish and re-light the next day paying close attention to the flame heights and melt pool yet again.  Try to achieve a full melt pool 1/4" to 3/4" deep within 3 hours!

♦ Why do different color fragrance oils leave my candles appearing darker than others?  Every fragrance is created with different essential ingredients.  Many are different colors (flowers are different colors) which makes each oil slightly different.  Example:  Dark fragrance oils will make for darker ivory candles.

♦ Why do some of my candles have wet spots?   Wet spots may occur when the candles cool very quickly.  Make sure jars are at room temperature and allow them to cool down slowly.   Most of us learn to live with this.  Just look at the "big guys' " candles - wet spots are all over them.

♦ Why do some of my candles have oil on the top?   Try adding less fragrance oil.   Be sure to WEIGH your oil using an accurate scale.  We recommend a recipe of 1.5oz fragrance oil per 1 pound of SCS soybean wax.   Some oils are heavier than others.  Be sure to incorporate the fragrance oil throughout the melted soy wax.

♦ Why is there sink holes in my candles?  Pouring at an incorrect temp can cause this.  Make certain that your jars are at room temperature.  You can also try pouring at a different wax temperature.   Heat the cooled tops with a heat gun to fill in voids and correct bumpy or flaky tops.  Usually the cooler you pour (100°), the smoother your tops will be.  Also make sure your candles are cooling slowly after pouring.

♦ Why can't I smell the fragrance oil in my candle?   This can be caused by the room being too large for your candle (office buildings, high ceilings, open spaces, drafts, etc.).   Sometimes simply leaving the room and coming back in can make all the difference.   Our sense of smell might be dulled for a moment.  It is also good practice to let your candles cure for a couple days or even up to a week.  This can make all the difference.  Are you WEIGHING your fragrance oil and adding the fragrance into the melted wax at 155 degrees?  This is extremely important and two steps that cannot be avoided. SCS recommends 1.5oz of fragrance oil per pound of SCS soy wax.  Measure by weight, not volume as the oils weigh different amounts and we cannot stress this enough for a great scent throw.

♦ Why are some of my candle tops bumpy, flaky or rough?  Some people prefer this natural look while others like a smooth finish.  This is the nature of soybean wax (all natural and pure wax).  To achieve a smooth finish heat the tops with a heat gun.  This simply re-melts the top layer.  Allow to cool.  The cooler you pour (100°) the smoother your tops will be.

♦ Can I cool my container candles in water or in the freezer?    No, we do not recommend as your jars may crack. 

♦ My container candles are not burning clear across the top.   Also referred to as "tunneling".   This may be caused by too small a wick.  Try wicking up to the next size.   Also effecting the melt pool can be the amount of fragrance oils used.   Do not burn candles in drafty locations.   Take notes on the amount of fragrance oil that is being used to help isolate the problem.  Another reason could be that you are not burning the candle until the entire top is melted (full melt pool).  Remember that soy candles have a memory.  When you light it for the first time, it remembers how far across the surface it melted.  For best results, let your soy candle surface completely liquefy before extinguishing with a wickdipper.  This will result in a longer lasting soy candle without the frustration of a tunneling effect down the center.  Keep wicks trimmed to 1/4th inch.

♦ My wick is drowning itself out.  Your wick may be too small.   Try a larger wick size.   Also make certain to not burn your candles in drafty locations.

♦ My soy candles are burning with a large flame.   This could be as simple as trimming your wicks shorter or you may need to change to a smaller wick. Take note of your melt pool depth and the time the candle achieved the full melt pool.

♦ Why do my candles have white spots?  This is referred to as frost lines or cauliflower.  This can indicate an incorrect temperature at pouring.  Try adjusting your pouring temperature.  If you pour cool (around 100 degrees) try pouring hotter.   Always know what temperature you're pouring at so you can adjust for concerns just like this.  Some colors are more prone to this (example:  reds, purples). 

♦ What can I tell my customers and write in my flyers about soy wax?   The benefits of soy wax candles are simply amazing...  Soy candles last three times longer than petroleum-based candles, incredible scent throw, virtually no black soot (which means no black walls!) Supports American farmers by using the soybean.  Soybeans are a renewable and sustainable resource grown right here in the USA!  SCS Soy Wax is 100% soy!  Each and every soy candle is different and can have different qualities.  Remember each field of soybeans is different and so each soy candle may be somewhat unique. recommends that you record your trial and errors in a journal soy you can always reflect back on the journal when problems do arise.  Hopefully you can refer back to your journal notes to isolate the cause of the problem.  Different variables can include your container, fragrance oil, wax, wicks, pour temperature and even the conditions of your work area.  Pleas, before marketing your products, test...test...test...and the re-test!  Testing cannot be stressed by SCS enough.   Testing will always remain an unavoidable part of your

More Helpful Links
centering wicks
how to do a test burn
+ how to make soy candles
+ measuring fragrance oils
Soy Wax and Polymorphism - What is That?


  Cleaner Burning Candles
  Environmentally Safe
►  Longer Lasting
Soy Wax
Paraffin Wax
  • made from 100% soybean wax
  • does not emit toxins while burning
  • emits an incredibly small amount of soot
  • biodegradable
  • water-soluble
  • burns cooler and slower
  • renewable resource
  • supports US farmers and our own economic growth
  • made from petroleum by-products
  • emits 11 known toxins while burning
  • emits large amounts of soot
  • non-biodegradable
  • not water-soluble
  • burns hotter and faster
  • non-renewable resource
  • creates further US dependence on foreign oil